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The Mushroom Connection

By January 16, 2025No Comments

An Interview with Mushroom Farmer Ben Harder on the Relationship of Trees and Mushrooms

WORDS & PHOTOS | Daniel James

We are what we eat, and one thing we eat sustains itself by consuming everything in the forest, from the canopy to the floor: the mushroom. Mushrooms, a fruiting body among the many that fungi can form, are our greatest connection to the natural world, particularly through trees.

“The connections between trees and fungi allow them to communicate and extend the consciousness of the tree,” begins Ben Harder, a passionate mushroom farmer at Den Hill Farm and Fungi who has turned his connection with the land into an art form. Nestled in the heart of the Appalachian foothills, Den Hill is a hidden gem where trees and mushrooms engage in an intricate, silent conversation. Harder’s eyes light up as he describes the complex interplay. “You can almost argue that the fungus and the tree are one consciousness, scouring the Earth for nutrients and carbon.”

The symbiotic relationship between mushrooms and trees is a free-flowing economy of sugar, nutrients, and food, vital for both the trees and the mushrooms. Mushrooms form mutualistic associations with trees, providing essential micronutrients and water while receiving carbohydrates such as sugar in return The fungi tend to the forest floor by breaking down organic matter, enriching the soil, and facilitating plant growth. At the same time, they establish communication and resource-sharing networks, maintaining the flow of information and nutrients throughout the forest. This dual role is crucial for the health and sustainability of forest ecosystems.

One of the best examples of this symbiotic relationship can be seen between shiitake mushrooms and oak trees. Shiitakes, known for their earthy, smoky flavor, naturally thrive on the dead and decaying logs of hardwood trees, particularly oaks. The hardwood provides a rich, dense substrate that supports the growth of the shiitake’s mycelium, the vegetative part of the fungus. In return, the fungi help decompose the wood, breaking down complex organic materials into simpler compounds that can be used by other creatures of the forest. On farms like Den Hill, shiitake mushrooms are often cultivated on logs cut from oak trees, mimicking their natural habitat to create optimal growing conditions. “White oak works best for shiitake mushrooms. The logs provide a perfect balance of nutrients and moisture,” says Harder.

Expanding the scope, oyster mushrooms — beloved for their delicate texture and subtle flavor — have a versatile relationship with trees, growing on a variety of hardwoods like beech, birch and aspen in the wild. These mushrooms are known for their ability to break down lignin, a complex organic polymer found in the cell walls of many plants, particularly wood and bark. This ability makes them highly efficient decomposers, returning vital nutrients to the forest soil. “Oyster mushrooms are incredibly adaptable. They thrive on a wide range of hardwoods, making them easier to cultivate on farms using different substrates like straw or sawdust,” Harder notes.

Harder started as a low-tech mushroom farmer, growing oysters on straw and various types of logs. “Growing on logs has its benefits; it’s the mushroom’s natural habitat, and there’s less that can go wrong. But it’s also a lot of work, especially when you’re cutting logs at the right time and ensuring they stay moist and undamaged,” Harder notes.

Hardwoods are the favored growing medium for many mushrooms, including lion’s mane (known to taste like seafood and with a texture similar to lobster meat), due to their ability to break down complex organic materials into simpler substances. This process releases essential nutrients, such as nitrogen and phosphorus, back into the soil. On farms, lion’s mane can be cultivated on supplemented sawdust or hardwood logs, making them both a valuable and sustainable crop.

The farm’s approach to cultivation is grounded in sustainability. By using hardwood fuel pellets, a waste product of the timber industry, they can grow mushrooms efficiently while contributing to waste reduction. “We’re using what would otherwise be waste to create something valuable. It’s a way to harness the power of fungi to turn waste into food and compost,” Harder says. This method not only supports sustainable practices but also provides a steady supply of mushrooms.

“Mushrooms are nature’s recyclers. They break down organic matter and return nutrients to the soil, fostering a healthy ecosystem. By integrating mushrooms into our farming practices, we can enhance soil health and reduce waste,” Harder explains. By breaking down complex organic materials, mushrooms sequester carbon and enrich the soil, fostering plant growth and biodiversity. Moreover, as Harder points out, “Mushrooms can transform waste into resources, turning what would be discarded into fertile ground for new life.”

This ecological perspective extends to the farm’s broader sustainability practices. By incorporating mushroom compost into their fields, Den Hill Farm improves soil fertility and promotes a healthy microbial ecosystem. “Mushroom compost is like black gold. It’s rich in nutrients and helps create a thriving environment for plants. It’s an integral part of our sustainable farming practices,” Harder says.

The farm’s commitment to sustainability doesn’t stop at composting. Den Hill Farm also emphasizes the importance of forest management and conservation. By selectively harvesting trees and ensuring the forest remains healthy and diverse, Harder maintains a balance between cultivation and conservation. This holistic approach ensures that the farm not only produces high-quality mushrooms but also contributes positively to the local ecosystem.

As consumer interest in mushrooms grows, driven by their nutritional and medicinal benefits, the future of mushroom farming looks promising. However, it also presents challenges. The industry needs more research and education to keep up with demand and ensure sustainable practices.

“One of the biggest challenges we face is educating consumers and chefs about the diversity and benefits of different mushrooms. There’s still a lot of misconception out there. People are often hesitant to try new varieties because they’re unfamiliar with them,” Harder notes.

Den Hill Farm addresses this by participating in farmers markets, where they engage directly with consumers, providing cooking tips and samples to encourage experimentation. The farm also sends out a newsletter to their customers with recipes and tips for proper storage. These efforts are crucial for building a knowledgeable and enthusiastic customer base that appreciates the unique qualities of different mushroom varieties.

Harder draws an intriguing parallel between the mycelial networks in forests and regional food systems. Just as mycelium connects trees and facilitates nutrient exchange, foragers and farmers contribute to the food system, creating a web of resources that supports communities. This network is vital for the resilience and sustainability of both ecosystems and human societies.

Mushrooms are a culinary delight, so try a mushroom you haven’t tried before, ask a farmer what tree it pairs with and buy a bottle of wine (with oak tones, maybe) to match that mushroom and make it feel at home while you feel a little more at rooted understanding mushrooms.

By appreciating the delicate balance between fungi and trees, we can learn to harness the power of mushrooms to create more sustainable and resilient ecosystems. Whether through foraging or farming, mushrooms offer a gateway to a richer, more connected relationship with nature.

To learn more visit denhillfarmandfungi.com

Culinary anthropologist and visual storyteller, Daniel James (DJ), has farmed, documented, and studied agriculture across the country and around the world for over a decade. He strives to build relationships between cultivators, cooks, and consumers through his company, HERD Ventures. Beyond his lens and pen, DJ dons many hats in his quest to foster a more connected world through food. From being a consultant, local TV host, and musician, to an obsessed cook, he weaves together diverse threads of creativity to spark conversations and inspire connection. In all his work, DJ shows high esteem through his art for the sources that nourish us, the farmers who cultivate the land, and the chefs who inspire.

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